July Newsletter
It feels like the summer hasn’t started, yet the sales with summer stock is rife. I’ve worked in fashion for a decade and I don’t understand that during this time sales and season launches happen in September (Autumn/Winter) and January (Spring/Summer) despite it still being warm in September and freezing in January. I no longer buy summer product in April/May but I increasingly wait and buy in the sales, if that is, that I need anything. This year I have bought one item that has been on my wishlist all year. More and more I’ve been finding that shopping, trends, influencers have been getting under my skin much more than before. Could it be that there is a cost of living crisis and spending £100 on leggings just feels crass. Are influencers who are gifted and advertise these products removed that far from reality? Not only this but we are all ignoring the impact that fast fashion is having on marginalised communities as well as the planet. I could go on and talk about this forever and I think I would love to write more on the subject. For now, however I’m just going to recommend 3 books that are a great source to look to if you want to learn more.
3 Books Focusing on Fashion
As a designer I am always drawn to books focusing on fashion, particularly commercial high street fashion. Over the last 5 years I’ve consumed more information then ever before about the impacts of fast fashion and how the fashion industry has changed over the years. To be honest most of these books are doom and gloom. The fashion industry as most of you will know is terrible, awful for the planet and shocking for the people (predominantly women) working on the factory floor. What has shocked me is that the majority of these books have been around for nearly 10 years yet none were on my radar when I was studying at University. Although we would have sustainability projects, they were mainly a nod to being sustainable I never REALLY comprehended what going into the fashion industry would actually look like.
It’s really hard being someone who actively tries not to over consume, who thinks about ethics and sustainability every day. And then, still be a huge part of the fashion industry. It is so easy to become desensitised to it, maybe a way to protect myself or because you hear the facts again and again that they lose their meaning.
Personally I’ve always made sure that the brands I have worked for use reputable factories and follow the government guideline/rules. Because of this there are certain brands I know I would never move to because of their reputation for using dangerous and underpaid factories as well as producing product that is intentionally “wear once”. From reading these book it has influenced the way I have designed.
Anyway, I think these books are really important reading. If you find yourself buying clothes monthly or even weekly then these might be a great way to open your mind. This is something that I would love to keep writing about and to keep exploring so please keep sending me suggestions or links to any think pieces.
How to break up with Fast Fashion by Lauren Bravo
If you’ve not really read much on the matter then I think this is a great book to introduce you to the subject. Lauren is great, I love everything I’ve read by her.
Her writing is very accessible and chatty, delivering important facts without being overwhelming.
The book kind of scratches the surface, it is the perfect introductory read with all the most important information. There are so many comprehensive books about fast fashion, but I know they can be heavy and overwhelming if you’ve not really read much on the matter before.
I love how Lauren has a very casual and humorous way about her writing. She delivers the facts whilst also being super relatable. She doesn’t do a deep dive into the nitty gritty but still puts forward her findings and brings some suggestions to the table.
Fashionopolis: The Price of Fast Fashion and the Future of Clothes by Dana Thomas
This book is a more comprehensive and in depth look at the fashion industry. Thomas manages to be optimistic and encouraging despite us all knowing the doom and gloom that surrounds it.
Her writing is fantastic, slightly more highbrow than Bravo but still delivered in a non stuffy or elitist way. She talks about the history of fashion, how politics effects this as well as ins and outs of todays fashion and how this is rapidly impacting the environment.
Thomas does come up with some suggestions of what we can do about it, however we need to take these with a pinch of salt, as it has been pointed out by quite a few people that she is extremely privileged, so what she finds to be affordable, obtainable and most importantly sustainable isn’t applicable to everyone. Although it does give a lot of food for thought. We might not be able to rent a Stella McCartney dress but could rent something cheaper or even consider borrowing a dress from a friend.
Worn: A People’s History of Clothing
This was definitely the most extensive detailed book that I’ve read on clothing. I initially picked up the book thinking it would be more about clothing in history and why we wear what we do, how cultural influences have impacted trends and subsequently how this has impacted the environment however it is more about cloth, manufacture and steers more towards the American market.
This might not have been what I was expecting but I learnt so much. Unlike other books I’ve read I felt that this was an extremely individual take and deliverance on the subject. I felt it really explained the impact of global warming as well as encroachment, for example the chapter about the silk worm and the mulberry tree I found truly fascinating.
I went away feeling (slightly overwhelmed at times) informed in a way that maybe I haven’t been before. I had some knowledge that I didn't realise I would want to know each subject she delved into so much depth. Overall felt in awe at the research that went into delivering a book of this knowledge.
What’s Next?
I’d also really like to read more about fashion theory, the history behind clothes and why we wear them. Not only the impact that fashion and creating fashion has. I have a few more books left on my reading list. if you have any recommendations let me know!